Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 05/29/13
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I lived in Honduras, Mexico, Belgium, Australia, and Togo before moving here.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
The Northwest of the U.S. It is typically 35 hours to get home.
3. How long have you lived here?
I have lived here four years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am a teacher.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I am content with our house.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I have seen a more limited grocery selection in other countries, but there are many items I miss. Cheese is quite expensive here and I love it.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Definitely.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a wide variety of restaurants that I view as a bargain. Going home to the U.S. always causes sticker shock.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Cockroaches and mosquitoes (non-malarial).
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Inexpensive and wonderful if you manage them well. Be fair. Don't forget the annual 10% inflation rate impacts them more than you, and adjust their salaries accordingly. Our kids will miss their nanny dearly when we go, and it isn't because she spoiled them.
2. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I know very little Nepali and get by just fine.
3. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It is not recommended for disabled people to come here. At the moment there are no sidewalks. The city is being rebuilt as part of a road-widening project. Also, there are rarely ramps or elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I have never had an issue and take regular taxis. I am male.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a narrow car. Roads are not wide.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Available and not prohibitively expensive.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I have known of two bombs that have gone off in the city in four years. That is the only thing that really concerned me. The situation does seem to be improving, though. The political protests are organized ahead of time, and people are warned to stay off the streets. If you cooperate, there is no danger. They are good at not targeting foreigners.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is not great.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is my one true complaint about Kathmandu. Get out of town on weekends between February and April when the air is the worst.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It is one of the best climates I have lived in. There are seasons with cool winters in the 40s and 50s and warm summers into the 90s.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I am biased. I have taught at Lincoln for four years. Last year and the year before, the school went through some convulsive changes and experienced significant divisions. Many negative impressions of the school stem back to that time. There was a change in administration, however, and the school is moving forward again. I don't believe that stories of unresponsive administration and out of touch long time teachers are relevant today. I know of four teachers out of 30 who (next year) will have been there more than five years. I view those more experienced teachers with a great deal of respect and find them highly professional.
Despite the fact that most students are not native english speakers, our SAT scores this year are higher than the world average. The is a significant upward trend academically in the upper school in the last few years. I have taught at marginal schools before, and I know that this is not one. I have not visited a public school in the U.S. that can compare with the education we offer. I taught 150 students in US public school classrooms. I teach 77 this year. The curriculum is innovative, relevant, and pushes students to take an active role in determining what courses are offered. We offer 10 different AP courses with only about 85 kids in the high school. Take at look at the web site and judge for yourself www.lsnepal.com
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Lincoln offers a full-time resource teacher at both the secondary and primary levels. There are also two ESO teachers for English language learning support.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
The schools do offer sports programs.
Expat Life:
1. Morale among expats:
Those coming from Paris may find a lot to complain about. If you are coming from a challenging post, there are a lot of positives: great tourist infrastructure, easy to save money, great entertainment options, and an interesting home base on the opposite side of the world from the U.S.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
We have children here and have found it a great place. I will be sad to leave it. I don't like the air quality and worry some about this. I didn't like malaria medication in Togo, or street crime in Honduras. Expat life has its ups and downs. We live outside the city some, which helps with the air. We run air filters in the house, and we try to get out of town when the air is bad. It is definitely reasonable. There are, however, few open areas where young kids can run and play; just the British Club and the American Club.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I know many gay people who are happy here.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Many people discriminate against dark-skinned people. Mostly they stop and stare in a provincial way. It is usually not malicious and not dangerous, but it is definitely annoying. This is less common in the city but more pronounced in the countryside and on treks.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trekking and regional travel. There is a lively restaurant scene in the city. There are many cultural events compared to other countries I where have lived. Jazzmandu, Hotel Vajra theater, live music at Moksh, holiday bazaars, school performances, art galleries: it isn't New York, but there is a lot going on for a developing capital city.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are great religious sites and UN World Heritage cites. The old architecture is beautiful.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Outside the city is great if you like nature. Trekking is amazing. Mountain biking around the city is good and a great way to avoid traffic and pollution. I have a trailhead at Shiva Puri National Park about 30 minutes from my house. It is a three hour hike to the summit at around 9,000ft with great views north to Langtang. You can hike from Shiva Puri National park up over the pass at 15,000ft into Langtang National Park on an eight day trek.
8. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
love of urban walking.
3. But don't forget your:
trekking poles.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Travelers' Tales Nepal: True Stories of Life on the Road (Travelers' Tales Guides)
Forget Kathmandu: An Elegy for Democracy, Nepal
