Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 06/21/11
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my first time working for a U.S. Embassy and my first true "expat" experience as all of my other experiences (4 in total) were 9-months or shorter.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
3. How long have you lived here?
I've been here nearly 2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
With the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is great - huge houses, most have nice yards & gardens. There is also a new apartment complex with beautiful, large apartments.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are largely available although some items (such as cheese) is hard to find. I would recommend using your consumables/HHE to bring your favorite items from home.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Very little fast food, but a huge variety of fantastic restaurants at a very low cost.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
It's VERY easy to be vegetarian here as many Nepalis are. Organic produce is not widely available, but there are a few speciality markets that have it.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Moths get everywhere, mosquitos during monsoon - but pretty typical stuff for this part of the world.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very inexpensive - about $150-200 per month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, lots of different options, although most people do not choose to work out outside (running, tennis, etc.) due to the terrible air quality. I used to run outside, but have given that up in Kathmandu as I feel that I am doing more harm than good to my lungs.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's basically a cash society, but you can get money from the Embassy cashier (if you're here with the U.S. Mission) or a few ATMs in town (if you trust them.)
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It's not necessary to know any Nepali, but it can only increase your quality of life.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very difficult - do not come here if you have physical disabilities. There are no sidewalks. I have literally seen disabled Nepalis pushing themselves down the street in their own wheelchair in the midst of crazy traffic with no one looking out for them -- very sad.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, safe & affordable but not very pleasant.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The smaller, the better -- Kathmandu streets are tiny and it is very easy to get stuck in a "traffic jam" of 2 cars.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I'm not sure about paid jobs, but there are plenty of volunteer opportunities.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This feels like one of the safest cities I've ever lived in, although I know there is still some petty crime. The security concerns are all politically-related (protests, strikes that shut down the city) and for Embassy personnel, RSO is very good about keeping everyone aware of what's going on... so no real concerns for personal safety.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care quality is very low -- there is only one decent Western client and they can only do out-patient care. A medevac is quite likely if you are really ill.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very, very poor. The air quality is terrible and one of the worst I have ever experienced. Although I do not have small children, I would think twice before bringing small children here due to the terrible air quality.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Monsoon for 3 months of the year (June-Aug, with some variation) but overall the weather is nice - never too hot, never too cold.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Very, very inexpensive household help.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large - there are expats of all types, but mainly of the NGO/volunteer variety and very few corporate types.
2. Morale among expats:
Typically very high, although everyone complains about the same things: the pollution, the traffic (which isn't really "traffic" but is more just terrible driving), and the fear of the looming earthquake.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots to do, but you have to go out and find it. This is not a city like DC or London (clearly) but there is plenty to do if you are energized and motivated.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes to all - I know people from every category and they have all found an appropriate social life here.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No, Nepalis are some of the most tolerant/accepting people I have ever met.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Again, trekking! Although it takes a while to get out of the city and it's not possible to do a "short" trek (the shortest is about 4-5 days, and most require at least 1 full week), if you plan it right, you can go to some amazing places on foot.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Outside of Kathmandu: trekking and exploring the beautiful country. Inside Kathmandu: lots of nice restaurants, bars, bike rides, temples, etc... but do not expect beauty inside this city. Nepal is a beautiful country, but Kathmandu is not a beautiful city -- quite the opposite.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Tibetan rugs, furniture, & artwork.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Trekking! Trekking is a huge, wonderful delight and a great reason to come here. I do NOT recommend that you come to Nepal if you do not enjoy hiking, as that is one of the really nice/beautiful things about the country.
11. Can you save money?
Yes -- in a major way! This is probably one of the best things about living here. I have saved TONS of money without even trying or budgeting.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
This is a tough one - I'm happy that I have lived here once but have absolutely no interest in ever returning (not even for a visit, unless I was to fly directly to the mountains.) Kathmandu is tough and it wears a person down. After 12 months, I was very happy here. After 18 months, I was pretty tired of living here. I will be very, VERY, ready to leave after 24 months.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations -- this place has been nothing like I expected it, in both good and bad ways. Also, leave behind your favorite shoes (especially high heels) -- the streets will destroy them.
3. But don't forget your:
Ability to remain calm when faced with ridiculous situations that would never happen anywhere else -- like a motorcycle stopping in the middle of the road, right in front of your car, to answer a cell phone call, without even thinking of pulling over.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
As you can probably tell from my report, Kathmandu is not for everyone and the negative things (like pollution, traffic, just basic lack of common sense or critical thinking skills) have affected me more than I expected them to. One of the worst parts about living here is that you know that you are living in one of the most beautiful countries in the world, but Kathmandu itself is not anywhere close to being beautiful and the terrible air pollution blocks the views of the mountains for all but about 2 weeks a year. If you make an effort to get out of the city, it will be a better experience, but overall I would say that this is a South Asian city like all the others...
