Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 09/30/10
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my first expat experience
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Fairfax VA is our home town. The trip was 15 hours for the first leg to Seoul, where we overnighted in Incheon Airport (hotel behind security) and the second leg was about four (4) hours to Kathmandu.
3. How long have you lived here?
I am two months into a two-year tour.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
U.S. Embassy families get large houses (2500 sq ft), or apartments. All properties in the city are behind walls, making for narrow gauntlets which taxi's and larger vehicles run. Large yards (1/16-1/8 acre).We're spread all over town, but commute is walkable and/or drivable in 10-30 minutes depending on your exact location.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Bhatbhateni Super Market, Namaste SM, Blue Bird are major dept stores and they have most things you need to survive. Cost of most things is less, milk and western-style cereal is more. Meat is VERY expensive. Get used to veg. to remain healthy. That said, Nina & Hagar is the best place for meat (imported from AU), and restaurants often have small meat dishes for less than one would buy fresh meat in the store.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Consumable items: chocolate, chocolate chips, flour (local is crap for baking), western cereals and chips, canned cat food/dog food. Anything you want immediately, or inside of three months (household items can take a while)
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food time-wise, but culturally there is Pizza Hut. Other restaurants (all hole-in-wall) are around, and actually very good. Indian, Nepali, Tibetan, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Western, Thai. Amazing.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Don't know if "organic" translates here. Much of the culture is oriented towards vegetarians from a cost standpoint. Farmer's market at 1905 Market is awesome.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Large, agile mosquitoes are active. Bring bug spray, get vaccinated against Japanese encephalitis, etc.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Get post via the embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
$120 USD/mo (9000 nrs) will get you a housekeeper or most other staff. A driver is becoming an expensive cost; some are asking twice that now.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Hyatt hotel (couples-friendly, not so much kids), The American Club (for Embassy or mission-related, or other expats)
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
BhatBateni Super Market is the ONLY place I used a CC.Have not used ATM's locally. This is a cash society. Keep 5,000 nrs for a weekly budget for your family
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
TV (and internet) by Subisu is available. See next section for details
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Nearly zero. All Nepalis know some English. That said, it will be a lot more fun if you know Nepali, and they are friendlier still if you show them you are trying
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sidewalks, if even there, are nearly untenable by small children let alone someone with a walking disability or wheelchair bound. Narrow back-streets make similar traffic hazardous (also no sidewalks there).Building entrances NEVER have ramps.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No RXR's. Avoid the buses, they are dirty and not safe. Taxis can be reasonable (60-300 nrs in town depending on destination), but can be a hassle. Haggle or ask for the meter before you get in.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Use a small auto, like micro sized, or you risk not being able to navigate the back roads. No hummers please. That said, something with 4wd and ground clearance would be useful too. Talk to folks who live here to gauge your needs. Locals drive suziki's. Toyota, Renault, VW have dealerships. Newer vehicles only.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Subisu provides a cable modem internet and TV package. We use the top end, 1Mbps up and down, no fixed IP.Relatively reliable (down only twice in two months for 1 - 2 hours), it costs 5800 nrs / mo (about $80 USD).Fair warning, you need to pay 3 months at a time and up front, in cash.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
NTC has 3G networking, but NCell is also decently reliable. I jail-broke my iphone and put in the local NCell SIM.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, but they should have a certificate, rabies shots, and probably be chipped. Ask your local vet.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Conservative. Adults, to be taken seriously, should avoid shorts and tank tops. Kind of like how you wouldn't dress as a teenager if out on the town or working. Trekkers and tourists are excused, especially in Thamel (tourist district), but will be targeted for offers of trekking, hash hish, etc.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None really. The friendly culture makes violence unlikely.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The water is horrible, but Aqua Hundred is a good bottled water brand. Embassy folks get well water (yes!) trucked in and have a distiller as well, so no concerns at home. Kathmanpoo's can be dealt with via Pepto (if just passing bug) or Antibacterial (if prescribed) for anything more than a few days straight.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dusty and polluted like Los Angeles. Monsoon season is ok, but breathing masks are advisable for city life in the winter (Nov-March)
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is mild and average for the temperate region. Monsoons bring rain (not w/o sun, though) in June- Sept. Bring waterproof shoes, or care-free sandals for city walking during that time. It is humid then as well
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Lincoln School seems to provide a good curriculum for at least younger children; no experience with older ones yet. Kids get bussed to school and back, which is great.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Addison Academy seems a decent preschool, much less expensive than Lincoln, but you get what you pay for.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
The Lincoln School has occasional sports programs I think
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I hear that there are 1700 Americans living in town, and we have all other nations here as well. Large enough to direct the economy of the tourist industry.
2. Morale among expats:
Very good.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Restaurants and bars abound, but shuts down early (8-9pm)
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles and families/couples, yes.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Though this is not a misogynistic culture, women are not equals in all eyes. That said, all tourists are equally exploitable :)
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Thus far (two months), the engaging expat community has been a highlight. It has been the pathway to being able to mountain bike, hike, run, see the restaurant and nightlife scene, tour in town, etc.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Touristing, shopping for knock-off hiking gear, jewelry, curious. Hiking, trekking, cycling (taking life into hands in the city)
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Hiking gear knock-offs, local honey, local yoghurt, journals (go for thicker ones, though they aren't leather bound), stationary and cards for writing home
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
All of the above. Kathmandu provides an urban base of operation for local touring in town and touring in the outskirts (mountain bike through the city to the outskirts for instance).The culture is very friendly, and especially outside the city kids are happy to practice their english. It is very inexpensive to live in the city, and some local staples are quite inexpensive, though imports can be pricey. A loaf of bread = 55 nrs (about .8 USD).AU Shelf Stable Milk = 175 nrs/quart ($10 USD/gal).The weather is average for a temperate region; 95 and humid in June/July, 70's (F) for September. Monsoon (wind + rain) from June - Sept.
11. Can you save money?
Yes!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
sense of worry and bad sense of humor, impatience. Your large vehicles. Road rage.
3. But don't forget your:
mountain bike, hiking shoes, patience, sense of humor. Hat, waterproof shoes, pepto bismol. Bandaids. Earthquake preparedness/MRE's
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Power outages via load shedding affect the quality of refrigerated goods in some stores. Embassy community has generators, so no worry there, but it has an affect on your power saving mentality. Try to fit a sizeable UPS in your household goods.
