Astana, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 07/20/08
Personal Experiences from Astana, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No--Moscow, Tbilisi.
2. How long have you lived here?
13 months.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
You have to fly to Europe from Dulles and then change planes in either Vienna or Frankfurt. It takes about 15 hours total.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government Employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I have heard that the U.S. Embassy will phase out houses in favor of very nice apartments.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Suprisingly, there are many western food items available lately in some grocery stores. Taco shells, cereal, pringles. However, you will pay for this luxury!Bring anything you are especially attached to, like ethic food mixes, spices, baking items.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Non-perishable food items I use often--chick peas, baked beans, etc. WINE!Also, more wool socks!
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food here. There are a lot of restaurants here, but not too many that are consistently good. The restaurants can be expensive, but you can get suprisingly good, cheap pizza here. There are even a few new coffee shop where you can get a decent latte--to go!Great Korean and Russian food, okay American fare at the hotels. It's all a bit expensive, so learn to cook if you want to save money!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I have never once seen a local post office, but there do appear to be local mail boxes here. We usethe pouch or DHL.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Not bad--25 bucks a day for a housekeeper. More if you want her to cook.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
The banking sector is suprisingly developed here, and we use ATMs quite a bit. Many restaurants and bars simply do not know how to use the credit card machines that they have, so cash is best.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think?
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Local TV gets BBC.AFN for USG personnel.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
At least a bit of Russian is essential--you should know how to order in a restaurant and read cyrilic. Don't bother with Kazakh.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be very challenging for someone with a physical disability to get around here, especially in winter when all roads and sidewalks freeze solid.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
The American side, but that doesn't stop the locals from driving into oncoming traffic or ignoring the lanes.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The trains aren't as cheap as in other former Soviet countries--plus, there isn't really a nearby city to take a train to!
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
It's not the type of vehicle, but its ability to handle in winter months. BRING STUDDED SNOW TIRES! That said, the locals are obsessed with the Toyota Land Cruiser, so if you want to fit in, buy one, and wash it often.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It has improved markedly in the past year I have been here. It has gotten faster and more reliable, but is still slow by western standards. It's about US$60 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You will be provided with an Embassy cell phone if you are USG personnel. You should be prepared to buy a phone for any of your family members who are coming with you. You can bring an unlocked U.S. cell if you want, and pop a sim card in.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vets are okay, although I sometimes question their decisions. Haven't heard of any kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. Perhaps for a self-motivated Russian-speaker.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suits for Americans at the Embassy. Locals dress upmore than Americans do. Bring your high-heeled pointy shoes. Locals don't wear sweats outside. Fur coats (for men and women) are extremely posh.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good--although it can get dusty in the summer with the wind blowing the construction dust around.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Low to moderate. There have been some unfortunate muggings of foreigners in recent months. Just avoid getting too drunk and ending up in a dangerous situation.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is okay, since Kazakhstan is trying to prove that it is a western country. The Embassy health unit is great.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Um--cold. Summers are nice--not humid, but short! It's usually sunny even when it is cold.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't have children, but there are two respectable schools--MIRAS and QSI. Both have their strengths and weaknesses, I've heard, so do your research before making a decision. The schools really only go up to about the 9th grade.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure. I think there is a special needs teacher at QSI.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is a preschool at MIRAS, but it can be hard to get in to (it's rather full). Many families hire nannies.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Growing--about 300 now.
2. Morale among expats:
Fair to good. Those who get out and do things have a better time here than those who sit at home at mope.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Bars, clubs, restaurants, house parties, happy hours, excursions. It's pretty good!
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this post is good for all, but can be the most challenging for single women. A postitive attitude can make anyone enjoy this post, though.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Hard to tell. Locals are not that accepting of homosexuality, but the expat community would most likely be very accepting.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is a very slight conflict between ethnic Russians and ethic Kazakhs here among the local population, but it's mostly just talk. For expats, anyone who doesn't look either ethnic Russian or Kazakh will be stared at. This is especially true for blacks--they are treated either like rock stars or snubbed by locals.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Summer--strolling outdoors through the central park, people watching, pick-up sports with other expats. Winter--cross-country skiing, ice skating, saunas. Any time--swimming laps in one of the public indoor pools. Also, go to the resort area called Borovoye for hiking in the summer or a cozy getaway in winter.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Some carpets, but better shopping in Kyrgyzstan.
9. Can you save money?
Yes, if you don't blow it all going out or taking trips to the west.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Baltika beer, dill, horse meat.
3. But don't forget your:
Wool, snow ties, coffee filters, wine.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Absurdistan by Gary Shteyngart.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Absurdistan by Gary Shteyngart.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Mongol, Nomad.
