Astana, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 01/29/08
Personal Experiences from Astana, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my first expat experience.
2. How long have you lived here?
13 months.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am affiliated with the U.S. Government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
From US (DC), 14 hours. Frankfurt is largest connecting point.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Flats for singles and couples without kids. Houses are available for families with multiple EFMs (eligible family members).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Things are expensive here. The location makes it hard to receive goods. Groceries cost about US$80 per week if you buy a fair amount of produce. Household supplies are about 2-3 times as expensive as the same goods in the U.S. Dining out is also expensive--about US$30 per person for a meal (salad, meat, one side dish, one drink).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Food and baking items.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food chains. There is one place, Mega, where there's a food court that serves burgers. Pizza is probably the most ubiquitous western food available.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I have pouch privileges.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We pay a house cleaner US$50 per week for 2 full days of work.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I don't use credit cards or ATM cards but I know people who do. ATMs are available at some banks. Credit cards are accepted at grocery stores and restaurants. Cash is just easier.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Evangelical, Catholic, Mormon.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
VH1 and BBC on tv. Newspapers: I haven't seen any.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Tourist-level: numbers, greetings, directions, food/drink items.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There aren't any ramps nor automatic doors. People in wheelchairs would have a very difficult time with the steps. Lifts sometimes don't work when they do exist.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right-hand driving (many still use right-hand wheel cars, though).
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I haven't taken local trains or buses but I've heard from locals that buses are not safe especially for women. Gypsy taxis are generally ok. Just use the basic rule not to get in one with a passenger already inside.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The roads are not well-maintained; however, you can get by without an SUV or 4-wheel drive vehicle. We have a Ford Focus with studded tires for winter driving and we're fine. The one time that a 4-wheel drive vehicle is useful is if you take day trips outside of Astana. It can get rough either on or off-road. Potholes are prevalent both in and out of the city.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
ABout US$50 per month for DSL, but the connection can be very slow and it drops often.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell service is dominated by two companies. I've never had a problem with calls; however, I only make local calls.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
If you teach, there are opportunities. As for other opportunities, I'm unaware of them; however, they may exist.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Professional--shirt/khakis or dress pants for guys at a minimum, many wear ties if not suits daily. Women don't need to wear skirts, but dress pants and button-down shirts are often worn instead.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Foreigners can be targets depending on the time of day/night and location. It's advised that foreigners not be out on their own, especially men, because they can be targeted even more. It's typical for 5 or so Kazakh men to jump one foreigner.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No health concerns because of the cold climate. Medical care is not that great. There is an SOS clinic. Medevac is often the default.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter can begin in November and last through May. Summer is June through August. Autumn is September and October unless iwinter comes early. The winter of 2006 was vert cold (-55F for weeks). The winter of 2007 brought more snow but was not as cold just very windy. The winter of 2008 is colder but less snow and virtually no wind. Weather, in general, changes quickly in the steppe. You can have sun, wind, rain, and sun again in one day with temps varying by 20 degrees in a few hours.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
About 200 Americans maybe a few hundred more among the other diplomatic communities.
2. Morale among expats:
Morale can range from low to medium. I think that since new staff have arrived in the last year, it's improved. The move from Almaty to Astana left many feeling embittered.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most people congregate at each other's places for dinner parties, etc. Dining out is also a big thing. There are a lot of restaurants here. The cuisine is varied, but the cooking style is basic and similar on the whole. Again, dining out is expensive for what you get (US$30 per person on average for a meal that would cost half of that in DC).
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's best if you're a couple or a family with young kids. Although singles and families with older kids do thrive.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not if you're openly gay/lesbian. It's a very homophobic culture.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Missionaries and other openly religious expats may be harassed due to the government's watchful eye. If you're black, you will be an object of attention--negative and even positive.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Winter: cross-country skiing, skating, ice sculpture gardens. Anytime: bowling, monuments.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Some craft works and some rugs maybe but there is not much available here in Astana in terms of those things.
9. Can you save money?
Yes. Just don't eat at restaurants too much, don't go clubbing or bar hopping too much, and watch the alcohol intake--it's expensive and you often find yourself in a vulnerable spot (i.e. getting jumped).
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Maybe.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Vodka, fanta, basic ingredients like sugar, flour, baking soda, salt.
3. But don't forget your:
-40F proof coat, winter accoutrements (hat, gloves, scarf, etc.).
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Borat! :)
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
See my blog: http://the-oyster.blogspot.com/
