Naples, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 07/08/09
Personal Experiences from Naples, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Quito, Lima, Guadalajara, Canberra, Pristina, Bogota, Vienna.
2. How long have you lived here?
Two years so far (2007-2009).
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
About 8-10 hours, depending on layover time. Best route is via Munich on United/Lufthansa.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Everyone lives in an apartment. They are relatively small, but fairly modern. Most have terrific views of the bay. I am the furthest from the consulate and my commute time is about 15 minutes (25 when traffic is bad). That's for 2.7 miles!
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Similar to Washington, DC (in other words, somewhat expensive). You can save about 10 percent by shopping at the Navy commissary.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You're in Italy -- forget fast food! There is an abundance of wonderful restaurants, but eating out is much more expensive than in the States. And the great majority of restaurants do not open until 8:00 p.m., so if you have small kids, you won't be dining out much. The Italian cuisine is wonderful, but if you want some variety, you're out of luck. There are very few non-Italian restaurants. Got a hankering for Thai? Fugget it!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes, but they're not as bad as in other places I've lived.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
FPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Most people have a once-a-week cleaning lady. Cost is about 10 Euros per hour for cleaning, and about 7 Euros per hour for babysitters.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Small gym in the consulate. Excellent gym at the Navy base.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Once I used my ATM and the machine refused to return my card. I had to go into the bank the next day and claim it. Other than that, haven't had any problem. As in the rest of Europe, no one takes the Discover card.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I've heard the synagogue holds services in English. Don't know about other religious establishments.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The International Herald Tribune is available. For English-language TV, you need to get an AFN decoder.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by with Italian. The local language, Neapolitan, would be useful, but for most interactions is not necessary. Hardly any of the locals knows English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Someone with a physical disability, especially if in a wheelchair, would NOT be able to get around in this city. There are very few facilities for anyone with a disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Safe? Only as safe as the individual drivers. Affordable, yes -- but taxi drivers are notorious for overcharging gullible foreigners. Public transportation is pretty bad.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small car (big ones are too unwieldy and hard to park) that you don't mind getting scratched and banged up. I would NOT bring an SUV or an expensive vehicle.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes -- best deal is with Telecom through the U.S. Navy.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Vodaphone has the best signal coverage, but the U.S. Mission decided to use TIM.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
This is not a good post for anything but the smallest pets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, business attire. In public, it's best to try and blend in. Italians, especially the women, tend to be very stylish. Dressing like an American (shorts, baseball cap, flip flops) will make you appear as a target to thieves and hucksters.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Depends on the kind of pollution. Air pollution can get very bad, especially in the summer. The public water supply is contaminated with dangerous chemicals and we are on bottled water. The soil is also polluted in many places, and this may or may not affect the local produce and dairy products.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
None.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime rate is very high. Various Camorra (Mafia) clans control the city. Street crime (muggings, purse snatching) is common, as are break-ins. Another security concern is surviving the way people drive here.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Cancer rates are reportedly higher here due to decades of toxic waste dumping by the Mafia. Some people suffer with the air pollution. Medical care is supposedly very good (I don't know, haven't needed to avail myself of it). The U.S. Navy has its own hospital and doctors that consulate personnel can access.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summers tend to be hot and humid, with very little rain. Winters are chilly and rainy. Spring and autumn barely exist.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an international school at the NATO base, but I have no experience with it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Our little one has been attending a wonderful local preschool (Istituto Denza). It is very well-appointed and near our apartment. She has made lots of friends, makes crafts, colors, paints, recites poetry and has picked up Italian very well.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Probably at the Navy base and Carney Park.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are thousands of American military personnel here with the U.S. Navy and NATO. A number of retired Americans live here, too.
2. Morale among expats:
Not very high. This is a difficult place to live and employment opportunities for family members are virtually nil. Driving is very stressful.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Up to the individual.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is probably a great post for a single person. There is a lot of night life and people are generally friendly. But despite the Italians' love of children, this is a hard place for a family. There is almost no green space in the city. Having a teen here might be difficult -- too much freedom could be very dangerous, not enough could be very boring.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Seems to be. There are a number of gay colleagues who seem to be happy.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Italians look down on Africans, Roma (Gypsies), Albanians and Arabs. They are not tolerant of Muslims. People are generally very friendly toward Americans of all races.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Pompeii, the Archaeological Museum, Herculaneum, Amalfi Coast, Capri, Ischia, Carney Park. Lots of museums, theater, music.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Travel, ceramics, furniture, food.
9. Can you save money?
Not in my experience.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
It beats having to go to Iraq or Afghanistan.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
SUV, expensive watch and jewelry.
3. But don't forget your:
You can get just about anything here.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
If you don't have high expectations, you will be happier here. People come thinking this is a paradise in a G8, EU country and are shocked to find poverty, organized crime, crumbling infrastructure, and total chaos. These are Third World conditions, so be ready!
