Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 08/13/15
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No - many other expat experiences in Middle East, Europe, and Latin America
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
~14 hours to the east coast of the U.S.
3. How long have you lived here?
2013-2015
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for families with kids were generally great. Nice big apartments, often with a view of the old city and/or a huge patio. Apartments for singles and couples without kids was a mixed bag. They were usually much smaller, though some were in a nice location.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive. Expect to pay at least ~30 percent more than in the U.S. Fresh fruits and vegetables are not taxed, so they are a little better. There are lots of supermarkets, though they are often a little run-down by U.S. standards and the local staff is often gruff. There are many interesting Israeli foods that are worth trying.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Kids' birthday party presents. You can find almost anything, but it will be at least 30 percent more in Israel than the U.S., so its advisable to stock up on a lot of things to save money.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of good food (though Tel Aviv is the best).
- Best upscale restaurants: Machane Yehuda, Mona, Smadar, Colony, Culinary Workshop, Notre Dame (mostly for the wine and view)
- Best medium-priced restaurants: P3 (best Pizza), Azzahra, Armenian Tavern
- Best cheap spots: Aroma (Israel's starbuck's equivalent), Lina's (old city), Abu Shukri (old city), Iwo's (non-kosher burger place)
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We had a lot of little ants on our patio that were attracted to our plants. We had to call someone once to get rid of them, but overall not bad. At least not many big scary bugs.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The consulate I worked in had a gym that was underground, but had everything necessary to have a decent workout. I tried the YMCA gym but it was too small and crowded, and the changing rooms were grimy. There's a fancy one in Mamilla mall that costs around ~US$100
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Lots of atms and easy to use credit cards. Use cash in Machane Yehuda (food market) and old city.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
A lot I would imagine.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It is amazing how many people in Jerusalem speak excellent english. However, you will enjoy your time much more, and appreciate Israeli culture more, if you learn hebrew. At least learn the alphabet.
Arabic is a great language and will open doors as well, but it is really hard, and the local dialect is different from Modern Standard Arabic. Most Palestinians in Jerusalem speak decent Hebrew.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, especially in the older parts of the city.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Don't take buses or trains. The taxis are safe but not exactly cheap (similar to DC prices - maybe a little more).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Your car is likely to get dinged up, so don't bring something too nice. It is often difficult to find parking in Jerusalem, and nearly impossible in Tel Aviv without paying for a lot.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Our internet was dsl and not that fast, but other buildings may have better wiring. The price was reasonable.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Golan is cheap and has a package that gives you free calling to the US.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. There was a fair bit of paperwork, but I don't remember the details as my spouse filled it out.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really, unless you have fluent Hebrew. There is a glut of many talented professionals - e.g. lawyers and psychologists - so even if you have the language it may not be a guarantee. Salaries are often at least 50% lower than the U.S. Also, if you are there with the USG, spouses can't travel to the West Bank, which seriously limits job and volunteer prospects all the more.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Israelis are quite casual. Decent pants and a button up shirt are fine for most meetings. I started off wearing suits, and quickly learned to dress more casually so I wouldn't stand out.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is a terrorist attack once every few weeks. Most are small scale (e.g. stabbings or vehicle attacks on pedestrians). They are definitely concerning, but when you factor in the low murder rate, the overall risk of a violent death in Jerusalem is lower than in many other places in the world. My family and I felt safe, though there are certainly neighborhoods we avoided.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Great medical care. Lots of good doctors with prices that are maybe 40% of U.S. prices. We found a bunch of great english-speaking doctors (GP and specialists) in a building called "Kiryat Wolfson" (most located on the third floor). Medicine is also 40% of cost in the U.S.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Great. Jerusalem doesn't have much industry and the city small by global standards (~800k people for the entire metro area) so there is not much pollution in the air
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Israel is a great place to be lactose-intolerant (you can just eat at the meat-kosher places) or lacto-vegetarian (avoid the meat-kosher). Plenty of vegan options.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Beautiful spring and fall. Summer is okay until late June, but July-August are pretty hot. But there is little humidity, so the temperature drops at night and it is much more comfortable than Tel Aviv (or DC). Winter can get cold, but it's much better than DC. It used to snow quite infrequently, but due to climate change, there have been some big snowfalls. It only rains in ~November through April/May.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Don't know - our kid was too little. I never heard anyone complain about the school situation.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
We LOVED our daycare - the Peace Preschool at the YMCA. Instruction is in Arabic and Hebrew and the teachers are both Arab and Jewish. The parents there were all very cool, open-minded people. We will really miss that place.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large and varied. There is a huge U.S. expat community, mostly Jewish. I would say 3/4 employees and families affiliated with my consulate liked the Post. 1/4 did not like it, generally because of 1) rudeness on the roads and in public spaces, 2) ethnic/religious tension, and/or 3) their apartment was in a remote, bad location.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I like to go to Machane Yehuda at night - it is lively and there are a lot of bars. There is a fun speakeasy downtown called 'Gatsby'. There was a fun music club near us called the Yellow Submarine. Overall it is not a big party city. The city is more orientated towards families, and partiers head to Tel Aviv.
Be warned the city is quite dead on shabbat (Friday night to saturday night). The few restaurants that are open are often overpriced and/or packed.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
In general, good for all of the above, though I have heard from some non-jewish singles that it was hard to find long-term dating material because of the religion issue. This is an ideal city for families - people have a LOT of kids in jerusalem (the average fertility rate in the city is 5.4) so many things are geared towards children. No one will bat an eye in a restaurant if your baby starts crying.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are many religiously conservative people in Jerusalem and there is a lot of intolerance towards homosexuality. Two weeks ago an Israeli terrorist stabbed 6 people at a pride pride. However, I will say that I had several gay friends (diplomats) and they all loved the post. Tel Aviv is a very gay friendly city and they traveled there frequently (it's only an hour with no traffic). Also, I think they found solidarity among fellow gay people (Jewish and Palestinian) who faced intolerance.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Individuals of Arab or Muslim descent are likely to experience significant prejudice in West Jerusalem, and Israel in general. There is a lot of anger and hatred in this city, and sometimes it gets to you, no matter how happy-go-lucky of a person you may be.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
1) The view of the Old City and surrounding hills from our home
2) Getting to know every nook and cranny in the Old City
3) Palestinian hospitality
4) Going to Tel Aviv all the time
5) Day trips to hike or visit archeological sites
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
In addition to the things mentioned above, I recommend:
1) Hiking around Wadi Kelt, Ein Gedi, Mitspe Dragot, Wadi Og
2) Explore the desert in including sde boker and makhatesh ramon, gadol, and qatan.
3) Masada.
4) The Golan and Galillee for visiting vineyards, ancient sites (like Beit Shean), swimming in the Sea of Galilee, hiking, and view of Syria. We liked the town of sfat a lot - just don't go on shabbat.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Most of the unique items are made by Palestinians (including Judaica), there are great ceramics (mostly made in Hebron), olive wood products, and Palestinian embroidery.
There is a lot of cheap junk sold in the old city that is chinese-made.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
1) Great food. Israeli cuisine combines middle eastern and european food and is delicious and not tooo unhealthy.
2) Fascinating city and country - politically, historically, culturally. There are many natural and historical sites to visit in close proximity. You can cover 2/3 of Israel on a day trip.
3) Tel Aviv is a fun, cosmopolitan city with nice beaches, good restaurants, and beautiful people
4) Nice weather - not too humid
5) Walkable, low-crime
10. Can you save money?
With the additional hardship and danger pay, and the COLA and tax rebate, we should have saved a lot. But things are expensive and money seemed to disappear as fast as it came in.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
There is a lot of history here - you'd be foolish to come here for a tour and not do some background reading beforehand. People who are shy or very polite need to be prepared for a culture where people are very direct, and do not say thank you. Many people are wonderful and helpful, but you often have to get through a prickly exterior.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, I doubt I will have a tour this interesting professionally or personally in a long time.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Belief that you can heal the world. The animosities here are deep-seated, and the political environment can often be very frustrating. If you come here with a healthy dose of cynicism, you will be better off. The tension and security situation seems to get worse in the summer.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Jerusalem: The Biography
- A Peace to End All Peace: The Fall of the Ottoman Empire and the Creation of the Modern Middle East
5. Do you have any other comments?
This is a great place, just come prepared for a culture in which you need to be a little pushy, and don't expect the local population's animosities to disappear anytime soon.
