Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 07/28/13
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is not my first expat experience. I have also lived in other cities in the Middle East, as well as Latin America and South Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
My home base is the east coast of the United States. A non-stop flight from Newark or New York City takes approximately 12 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
I have been living in Jerusalem since the summer of 2011.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I work at the U.S. Consulate General in Jerusalem.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most people live in apartments, although homes are available in certain older neighborhoods in the center of the city or in newer developments on the fringes of the city. Traffic can be significant during peak hours, but it is also easy to walk or take public transportation, such as the light rail.
Most diplomatic missions and NGOs scramble to rent houses or apartments in East Jerusalem for political reasons. As a result, rents are artificially elevated there even though the quality of housing is lower, in general, and the municipality provides only spotty public services.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find nearly everything here, with a few small grocery stores specializing in imported products. Prices are comparable to western Europe, probably due in part to the 18% VAT, which diplomats can get refunded. Fruits and vegetables are not as expensive, and they are generally high quality. Breads, pastries, and prepared coffee is particularly good here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
There is no need to bring anything if you have access to diplomatic mail. If you don't, bring kid or baby items since they are generally expensive here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are few international fast food chains, although McDonald's is here. Most restaurants in Jerusalem are cafes that are part of Israeli chains. The quality is generally high. There are also a few higher-end restaurants, but Tel Aviv has many, many more. An average meal at one of the higher end restaurants will cost as much as a meal in Washington, DC.
The vast majority of Jerusalem restaurants are kosher, which means that they serve only dairy products or only meat products. Moreover, they are closed on Shabbat, which runs from Friday sundown to Saturday sundown. There are about 10-15 quality non-kosher restaurants in West Jerusalem that ignore these rules, but this small scene can feel monotonous after awhile, especially since most of the restaurants are owned by a few conglomerates.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Insect problems are minimal since this is a desert environment. Occasionally there are mosquitos in the summer, but that depends on where you live in the city.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I use the military postal system or the diplomatic pouch. DPO mail arrives in around one week and pouch in just short of three weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Some Palestinians provide cleaning or childcare services, but you generally must be able to speak Arabic to communicate with them. Foreign domestic workers cost more but are widely available. The minimum monthly wage is around US$1,000/month, but it is difficult to obtain visas, unless you are a diplomat. Most domestic workers care for elderly Israelis, and they generally may not stay for more than five years.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are several gyms open to the public in the center of town, but I understand that they charge exorbitant prices.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Both are commonly and widely used.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think so, but I don't really know. I know there are Anglican and Mormon services in English, and I'm sure there are others, as well. Most local Christians attend services in Arabic. I'm sure all Muslim services are in Arabic, and I assume that is the case for Jewish services, as well, although it appears that some synagogues have predominantly English-speaking members.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are two major local papers in English: Ha'aretz and the Jerusalem Post. The local cable packages have some English channels, I think, although I don't have cable or satellite. Arab satellite service is widely available.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by with English with no problem. Obviously, the more Arabic or Hebrew you know, the better off you are. Neither language is that easy for English speakers to learn, although Hebrew is probably simpler. Palestinian Arabic resembles other Levantine dialects.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Recent renovations to roads and sidewalks in the city center have greatly increased its accessibility, but this is an old city that was not built with the handicapped in mind. Remember that it is also built on a series of hills.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are safe, except when they blow up. U.S. diplomats are not permitted to take public busses for this reason, although they can ride the light rail, take shared taxi busses (sheruts), and normal taxis.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The best options are small to mid-sized European or Japanese models, although service is available for most makes now. Fords are also widely driven. Gasoline is twice as expensive as in the U.S., although diplomats can buy it at approximately half-price due to tax exemptions. I would not recommend SUVs since gas is expensive and parking spaces are generally small.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, internet infrastructure is pretty good. 10 MB/s costs around US$50/month, although competition seems to be driving prices lower.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The Israeli cell market has major competition now, so shop around to get a great deal. The most you should expect to pay is around US$50 a month for a full data package.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. They never even looked at our cat's papers.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
No idea, although I see pet shops and vets. Some friends kept their dogs at a kennel between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv when they would travel.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are plenty of international aid workers. You generally must speak Hebrew to work locally otherwise.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Israelis are generally informal and rarely wear suits and ties. Most people in Jerusalem dress relatively conservatively, although some do as they wish. I recommend wearing "modest" clothes if you decide to go to a religious Jewish neighborhood or wander through East Jerusalem.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Street crime is negligible. The main concern is political or ethnic violence, especially mass terrorist attacks against civilians by Palestinian extremists. There are been no significant attacks in the city for several years, but terrorism could return with political tension. There are also occasional ethnic attacks, such as violent attacks and intimidation by extremist Jews against Arabs or those they assume to be Arabs.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The level of health care is very high, as long as you have the money to pay privately to skip the queues that most Israelis endure.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is generally excellent because Jerusalem is built on a mountain that has a steady wind. Once or twice a year, a major sandstorm will blow in from the desert.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
During the summer, temperatures generally top in the low 90s Fahrenheit, but the heat is dry and the temperature falls into the 70s at night. There is also a nice breeze most of the summer. The rainy season is in the winter, and it can drizzle for several days on end, but the overall rainfall is low. Winters are cool, and temperatures can reach into the 60s during the day, although snow falls once every several years. The sun is out nearly every day.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most people send their children to one of two schools: the Anglican School and the American School. I don't have school-age children, so I can't offer much insight into the pros and cons of either school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Nearly all Israeli children go to daycare, and local daycares are spread throughout the city. The cost is low by U.S. standards, but most programs are in Hebrew (in West Jerusalem) or Arabic (in East Jerusalem). It is possible to hire nannies, but you most earn more than the U.S. minimum wage and it is complicated to obtain a work visa for most of them due to increasingly strict visa rules.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Don't know. It's not a big sports culture, though, aside from soccer. Space is also at a premium in the city center.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Moderate. There are many Jewish-American immigrants, but they tend to not mix with non-Jewish expats. Most Palestinian-American expats live in the West Bank and face difficulty entering Jerusalem. There is a sizable community of foreign expat aid workers and diplomats who live in Jerusalem and work in the West Bank.
2. Morale among expats:
Seems to be pretty good. Life is easy here, although see the section above on the problems that singles face. Some people allow the local political conflict to poison their outlook, and others find the aggressiveness of Israelis to be unbearable. It's best to not get too invested in the conflict and try to ignore the aggression at the market and on the street, which can be tiring.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
See the section above on socializing.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a city for couples or families, not singles. Most families seem to be happy, but singles consistently complain of a lack of social outlets and the difficulty of meeting possible partners. Palestinian culture is relatively conservative, and the majority of Jews in Jerusalem are also conservative. Bars and nightlife exist, but they cannot compare to the scene in Tel Aviv. Jewish expats seem to have no problem meeting people to date. On the bright side, the international expat community has gotten larger over the years due to the number of NGO workers in the West Bank.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
As noted above, Tel Aviv is the place to be for singles or gays and lesbians. There are plenty of gays and lesbians in Jerusalem, but it is a conservative city without much of an overt scene.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Absolutely. Most Jewish Israelis in Jerusalem are conservative and nationalistic. Same goes for most Palestinians in East Jerusalem. All of the logical results, including occasional violent clashes, ensue from time to time. The city has a lot to offer, but it also has the underlying tension of a place struggled over by two peoples.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Exploring the Old City and the nooks and crannies of West Jerusalem, hiking in the Galilee, and popping down to Tel Aviv to go to the beach or explore Jaffa on the weekends.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Explore the city, eat, hike, go to the beach an hour away, visit wineries.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Armenian pottery. Bedouin rugs. Tasty wine from micro-wineries.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
There are many great things about living in Jerusalem. It cannot be topped for history, if that is your thing, the weather is great (dry, cool in the evening, not too cold in the winter), the food and produce is fresh and tasty, the city is relatively kid-friendly, and the municipality has done a lot to improve the general aesthetic quality of life over the last few years. Moreover, it is one of the few places where significant Israeli and Palestinian populations exist, so you can take advantage of the best aspects of both cultures.
11. Can you save money?
Not really. The cost of living is generally on par with Europe.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I worked here at the end of the '90s and vowed never to return due to the political tension. I chose to ignore politics this time, and that freed me up to enjoy all the great things about being here. If you're a U.S. diplomat, you also get a ton of allowances for serving here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hmmmm....ski clothes? That's not even true since you can ski in the Golan heights. This place has a wide range of climates and activities.
3. But don't forget your:
Patience. Don't let yourself get dragged into the local conflict. It will just just poison your time here, and you won't change the status quo in any way.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Israel has a strong film industry. Pretty much anything should help educate you.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are too many to name: Jerusalem, a Biography; Bitter Lemons;....the list goes on and on.
