Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 03/31/14
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I've also been to Baghdad, Iraq.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Direct flights from Tel Aviv to Newark (United) or to Philadelphia (US Airways). Direct flight is about 11 hours in length.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years - from 2012-2014.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work at the U.S. Consulate Jerusalem.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Consulate housing is typical condos located in several areas within the city. A few larger families have houses. It's very rare to have any yard. Residences are typically located in City Center (5-10 minute walk to Consulate), near Consular Facility in Arnona, or in East Jerusalem with a few other residences scattered throughout the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is very expensive here. You will spend a fortune on groceries and household items. A box of cereal is about US$8 compared to US$4 in the States. American brands are more expensive. A typical dinner for two with drinks will cost you about US$125.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Ship as much cleaning supplies, tolietry items, non-perishable food as you can. You most likely will not find all of your favorite brands and items are expensive.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Israel/Jerusalem has very few American businesses here. Only American brands you will find are KFC in Bethlehem, McDonald's (kosher), Pizza Hut, and Dominoes. There are many shwarma and schniztel places where you can grab something quick.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing out of the ordinary. Small ants within apartments so it's good to have ant traps handy.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Use DPO/pouch. Sometimes it's a very quick turn-around, less than a week, when sent "Priority." Sending back to the U.S. takes twice as long.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Consulate does have a new gym located in the basement of the Consular facility in Arnona which is 2 miles from the City Center. There are also private gyms where you can get memberships and some of the hotels downtown have memberships to use gym and pool area. These are typically very pricey about US$100+ for an individual.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted and ATMS are safe to use.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Notre Dame offers English Catholic mass.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Everyone pretty much speaks English here but unfortunately everything is written in Hebrew or Arabic which can be frustrating.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sidewalks are constructed with Jerusalem stone and are very slippery. Some handicaped parking spots can be found. Handicapped accessible doors are very rare.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Buses are off limits to USG personnel. Taxis and trains can be used.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any type of car is suitable but be forewarned if you bring something with larger than normal tires or with lift kits, you will have a difficult time registering it. Small cars are great for the tight streets and parking spots, but honestly having a SUV 4WD has worked out perfectly for traveling on bad roads, unimproved terrain, and I have had no issues parking it in parking garages or parking spots on the street. Do not bring anything new unless it won't bother you to get scrapes and door dings. Every car here is beat up.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes thru Bezeq or Al Quds at reasonable costs.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring your phone and just buy a SIM card to use here. Cost is about US$25 a month.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine but it's advised to bring your pets with you on your flight or you will have to pay customs import fees. No fees other than airline charges if pets travel with a diplomat.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really unless you can also speak Hebrew fluently.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business Attire at work. In public, Israelis tend to dress very casual even to more formal events such as weddings and Bar Mitvahs.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Chief of Mission personnel are not allowed to use public buses. Taxis, Sheruts, and light rail are all allowed. Sometimes security situations dictate movement restrictions to the West Bank (offical business and personal travel to approved areas-Jericho & Bethlehem).
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Quality of medical care is standard. The Herzliya Medical Center north of Tel Aviv will also take Blue Cross Blue Shield insurance.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good most of the time. Occasionally there will be sand storms that blow in. There are some allergens here so if you are easily affected by allergies, bring your allergy meds.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very typical Mediterrean climate. Jerusalem sits up high in elevation so it is usually 10 degrees (F) cooler than in Tel Aviv. Very low humidity as well compared to Tel Aviv. Summers temps are in the 80s-90s F. Winters are typically low 50's F. Snow does happen, it snowed both winters since we've been here.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most children of Consulate employees attend the Jerusalem American International School (JAIS) or Angelican International School Jerusalem (AISJ).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, many use YMCA preschool which is located behind the Consulate
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large expat community as there are also many dual citizens here as well. Morale is good.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is good for everyone. Plenty of things to see and do to keep singles entertained as well as families. Tel Aviv is just a 45-minute drive away if the Jerusalem night life is found to be lacking. There is a small handful of non-kosher bars and restaurants that are open on Shabbat.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Probably not since Jerusalem is full of relegious Israelis that would frown on gay/lesbians. Tel Aviv has a very vibrant community though and seems to be very tolerant.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Prejudice is very prevelant here in Jerusalem, more geared towards religious and cultural. Israelis are very supiscious of Arabs and it shows. There is always an underlying tension here. Also Israelis are not very open to outsiders and very hard to break the divide.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Mediterrean beach, convenience to visit Jordan (Petra, Jerash, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea, Aqaba), great hiking, exploring Crusader castles, visiting historical and biblical sites.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Walking through the Old City, Temple Mount tours provided by the Consulate, hiking at Wadi Qelt.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Hebron glass and ceramics, vintage photos from the early 20th century/late 19th century of Old City, scarves, olive wood carvings, Palestinian olive oil, and dead sea spa products.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The amount of history at your finger tips is amazing! The weather is very comfortable and the fact that you can visit the beach, 45 minutes away is fantastic too. Easy access to visit Jordan. Easy to get to anywhere in Europe with a 3-4 hour flight.
9. Can you save money?
If you are single then yes but you will still spend a lot of money on food, entertainment, and travel.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known how few American brands there are here. Jordan is more westernized than Israel. I wish I had studied up on more Hebrew to be able to read store signs
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, while it has been frusrating to watch the world revolve around this place, it's still a great place in which to have lived and worked.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Your ideas that this is a city full of love and tolerance for everyone because it's the Holy City. It's not - lots of prejudices here. Leave behind your brand new car and fancy clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Beach attire and beach toys!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Any travel books relating to Jordan, Petra, Israel, Jerusalem, Old City.
