Surabaya, Indonesia Report of what it's like to live there - 04/27/15
Personal Experiences from Surabaya, Indonesia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second expat experience, first was in Latin America.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
New England, brutal flight from East Coast... JFK to Hong Kong at ~14 hours, Hong Kong to Surabaya at ~6 hours. There are other options, but almost all involve a 14-plus hour leg or numerous connections. Most routes are through HKG, KL, Tokyo, Seoul, or JKT.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Foreign Service serving at ConGen Surabaya.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for the U.S. Consulate is mixed between single-family houses and a high-rise apartment building. The houses are a 5 minute drive to the Consulate and the apartments are about a 20 minute drive.
The apartments are convenient to more shopping than the houses, and are pretty well-furnished. The houses are on a quiet, gated street, and neighborhood kids enjoy a lot of freedom to run & play.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local products are pretty cheap. Local produce and meat is about 20-30% cheaper than their counterparts in the U.S. Imported goods are expensive and vary in availability. You can east like an Asian or like a Westerner as you please. If you're USG, supplementing the local inventory with Commissary and Amazon shipments makes it much easier to appease a Western palate or picky kids.
A word of caution: like many developing countries, be prepared to go to more than one market to complete a simple shopping trip. A new Ranch Market opened up near Citraland and it has made shopping easier, but be prepared for that common ingredient to be "sudah habis" (already sold out).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Quality cheese and charcuterie (as checked luggage in a cooler - more important than clothing). Deep Woods OFF. Aerosol sunscreen. Favorite brands of booze.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, KFC, A & W, Texas Fried Chicken, Dunkin' Donuts, Starbuck, and CARL'S JR. The Carl's Jr. is a nice addition to the fast food fray. Prices are comparable to U.S. prices. Menu selections vary.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes, cockroaches, ants, flies. Nothing out of the ordinary.
Dengue is a huge problem in East Java at the moment, and one should take great care to apply insect repellent regularly.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
With the USG, via Diplomatic Post Office. This is not a real DPO, however. Consider it a pouch, as it's a twice-weekly shuttle service from Jakarta.
Indonesian post is unreliable, but there are private courier services that vary in price and service levels. DHL and FedEx are also available.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There's always domestic help available. The quality varies significantly, however. If you have dogs, your options will be severely limited.
Costs:
Housekeeper/Cook: IDR 1.6-2.0 million/month
Driver: IDR 1.7-2.2 million/month
Nanny: IDR 2.2-2.5 million/month
Gardener: IDR 50,000/day (weekly or semi-monthly)
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Consulate has a small & adequate gym. If you're not USG, there are several other options, including a new Crossfit box and a rock-climbing gym near Citraland, and numerous health clubs around the city.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are normally fine, but I have had a few breaches over the last six months. That said, use caution when using your home-bank-issued debit card. I would suggest having a separate account for cash withdrawals, or opening a local account to & from which you can transfer necessary funds. Mitigating exposure is highly encouraged.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I believe there are some English-language Christian services available. I can't directly comment.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
All of it. I'm only partly joking....
I came with a little more that bare basics and had a very steep learning curve and great difficulty navigating everyday life, including simple requests for my housekeeper. Some of the domestic help associated with the Consulate or SIS has some English, but you will pay a premium for the language capacity and may get diminishing returns on the quality of work.
That said, I learned Indonesian in a hurry and find that with my still-basic-but-functional Indonesian, I can get around. My vocabulary is roughly 5,000-8,000 words, and I still have trouble with comprehension, but it's much easier here if you know the local language. Most Surabayans DO NOT speak English other than the basic pleasantries. The farther afield you get in Indonesia, the less likely you are to encounter success with anything but Indonesian.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Those with physical disabilities would have a very difficult time in Surabaya. Sidewalks rarely exist, elevators are usually broken or non-existent, and there are rarely accommodations for disabilities except in the most modern malls and hotels.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are plentiful and affordable. The Consulate recommends USG personnel & dependents only use Blue Bird or Orenz. Blue Bird has an app for calling taxis which makes it even easier.
Buses, becaks, tuk-tuks, etc. aren't recommended for safety and security. National train service is fine and cheap... just lower your expectations of what "Executive Class" means.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
New GOI regulations prohibit the importation of vehicles by USG staff. This applies to the whole of Mission Indonesia. Motorcycles are considered vehicles under this new policy.
Used cars are plentiful in Surabaya. Find a reputable dealer or try to purchase from an outgoing expat, if possible. Common cars are Toyotas, Dihatsus, Hondas, Nissans, Fords, and Chevys. Cars are expensive, but mostly retain their value. Expect a 10-20% depreciation over two years.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High-speed internet is available at a high cost. Expect to pay about US$10/month per 1 Mbps of throughput from the three providers (Speedy, FirstMedia, and CitraMedia). Speeds currently advertised from 5 Mbps up to 100 Mbps, but the infrastructure really only supports about 10-15 Mbps. Speeds to Europe or the U.S. are much, much lower.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Unlock your phone before arriving & get a local chip from Telkomsel. US$20/month pre-paid will get you plenty of internet and talk time. Post-paid is only an option for expats with a letter of sponsorship from your employer. There are other providers, but none boast the coverage of Telkomsel.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Veterinary care in Surabaya is horrible. Please be aware of this if you are thinking of bringing your pet. Also be advised that having a dog will make it extremely difficult to find a housekeeper.
Animals destined for Surabaya must arrive through Jakarta, as Juanda Airport does not have adequate kennel facilities. There is a 14-day quarantine period for all animals. Members of Diplomatic Missions can have this waived and do a home quarantine instead. All animals, regardless of quarantine location will spend one night in Jakarta's quarantine facilities in order to be evaluated by a Dept. of Agriculture inspector.
Transportation from Jakarta to Surabaya can be done overland (24-36 hours) or via a Lion Air flight to Surabaya. You will need to contract a pet importer to navigate the bureaucracy of pet importation. Groovy Pets and JakPetz are two popular, reputable companies.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
For the USG community, it is prohibited to work on the local economy. This severely limits opportunities.
Other expats can find jobs as teachers (school and English), with multi-nationals, NGOs, and local industries. I cannot speak to the process involved as I am USG.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are many through EWAS (Expatriate Women's Association of Surabaya), mostly geared towards and marketed to women, naturally. Male trailing spouses will find it more difficult to stay busy.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Modest and conservative dress is recommended but not necessary. Attire ranges from full niqab to just-stepped-out-of-the-ocean.
To play it safe, men should wear slacks and button-up shirts or batik to business events; women should wear knee-length skirts or slacks and sleeved blouses. While it is perfectly acceptable to walk around in shorts, tee-shirts, and flip-flops (and I do regularly), you will be pegged as a bule immediately. Have a business casual wardrobe on standby.
Women may want to bring a scarf or two to cover their heads as the occasion arises.
A funny aside: it is perfectly acceptable to go to the supermarket/convenience store in your pajamas.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Surabaya has been pretty secure the last couple of years. The Indonesian police have disrupted a few potential terror cells in and around Surabaya, but thankfully nothing has come out of it. Extremism remains a threat in this country, but Surabaya is no more dangerous than your typical large Asian city. Exercise caution, be aware of your surroundings, and don't put yourself in to bad situations, and you'll be just fine.
Another security concern is the threat of geologic events. Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions can and do happen. Have a plan, have a go-bag, and be alert.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health care is not up to Western standards. Most expats carry medevac insurance and go to Singapore for all non-routine care.
There is a modern hospital with decent doctors near the Consulate, but it is not staffed by highly-trained technicians. Lab results are frequently misread, diagnostic imagery misinterpreted, and simple procedures done incorrectly.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Pollution is moderate. The Consulate is located is outside of the city in a new development, so we don't get the full brunt of it. Anyone with sensitivities should take necessary precautions, but the average person won't notice it much.
Allergies are a bigger issue, as the flora here cause problems for both people and pets. Stock up on allergy meds before arriving, as they are not readily available here at local pharmacies, especially for kids.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Seasonal/environmental allergies are pretty bad here. I usually do not suffer from allergies, but I do occasionally have issues. My family has allergies and they need to medicate regularly.
Those with severe food allergies should exercise extreme caution here, as ingredient lists are often incomplete and servers/chefs/housekeepers aren't necessarily culturally sensitive to food allergies.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tropical climate, with rainy season lasting from around December until April. Seasonal rains can cause problematic flooding in Surabaya, and one should expect delays on the roads during rainy season.
The temperatures average in the high 80s to low 90s F (30-32 C) year-round. It feels significantly hotter during dry season, and heat indices regularly approach 120 F (49 C) then. Evenings are cooler, but it is always humid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The Consulate sends its children to Surabaya Intercultural School, located nearby the Consulate. It is an adequate school through 6th grade, then becomes a little more challenging in High School for those on an A.P. track.
The school is going through challenges both internally and externally and will likely come out just fine, but the last two years have been... interesting.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
The school has limited resources for special-needs children. For this academic year, the school hired a dedicated Special Needs counselor, but politics and churn see him moving on after this year. I am unsure of any plans to replace him in the foreseeable future.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool is available at SIS, and most Consulate families elect that option. There are a few other options in the Citraland development worth looking at, but I have no direct experience with any of them.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are afterschool activities for kids at SIS. These include soccer and swimming. Other sports include golf, tennis, badminton, and basketball. Our child wasn't old enough/didn't want to participate, so I can't comment on the quality.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small expat community, with about 10 Western nationalities represented - U.S., Dutch, English, German, Austrian, Australian, New Zealanders, Brazilian, Mexican, French, and Canadian. There is one expat-owned pub that serves as a gathering point for a good cross-section of Westerners each weekend.
Morale depends on a lot of factors. Many expats who have married Indonesians really like it here. The company you keep and whether your interests and hobbies can be addressed are huge factors.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We like to sit on our front porch and watch the neighborhood go by. We also grill regularly and invite the neighborhood families to join. There are occasionally expat meet-ups and themed parties at the city's hotels. It all depends on where in the city you are. From Citraland, it is a minimum one hour drive to get anywhere.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This all depends on the person/couple/family. As stated above, many people love Surabaya for various reasons. If you're single or childless and have the means to travel regularly, it's a great place. If you're a family who has the means to travel and pay for quality childcare, it's also great.
Single men will enjoy this city immensely. Single women will not. This is a city of many opportunities for romance, whether wanted or not, for both men and women. Anecdotal evidence shows it is much more oppressive for single women, as unwanted advances are aplenty, and "no" isn't readily accepted as an answer. Your mileage will vary.
We were more or less homebodies, as a demanding USG travel schedule put the kibosh on many a planned trip. This was both great and incredibly boring. As a family, we tended to stay around and socialize with our neighbors. Your mileage may vary with your neighborhood's and/or organization's makeup.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homosexuality is technically illegal in Indonesia. Practically - it depends. Some areas are more welcoming and tolerant of same-sex couples. I can't attest to opportunities in Surabaya for LGBT folks, but we do know a few who seem to get by quite easily.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Dark skin is undesirable in Indonesia, as evidenced by the entire aisles of "skin whitening" products in grocery stores and pharmacies here.
Outright racism is rare, but there are undercurrents. People of color are treated somewhat differently, but usually it's more of a sense of wonderment, especially for those of Afro or West Indian descent. Whites are also treated with wonder, sometimes being more popular than the animals in the zoos here in East Java.
Religion can be an issue, as there are only 6 accepted religions here: Islam, Christian (Catholic), Christian (Protestant), Buddhism, Hinduism, and Confucianism. You're forced to state your religion on your entry card, and expats marrying an Indonesian must also choose a religion. Sunni/Shia tensions are real, and tolerance can be strained at times.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
For me, Surabaya doesn't have many highlights. It's an industrial city with booming manufacturing and shipping industries. The highlights have been getting out of the city and traveling: to Bali, Lombok, Yogyakarta, etc., but even these trips have been just okay. I think the ability to travel from Surabaya is its highlight (you're a 1- to 4-hour flight from just about any type of tourism or adventure you can imagine... mountains, jungles, volcanoes, Komodo Dragons, orangutans, elephants, tigers, SCUBA, world-class surfing, etc.). Bangkok and Singapore are close-by as well.
Many colleagues rave about their time here and how wonderful Surabaya and East Java (and beyond) are. These colleagues also tend to be single or childless. Family travel tends to be a little more dicey, as accommodations can sometimes leave a lot to be desired. We've also been limited by lack of quality childcare.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are several traditional markets in Surabaya, but I haven't been to any. Traffic and distance to them are challenges. To the south of the city, there are some attractions like golf, safari-like zoos, waterfalls, and a botanical garden. Across the Madura Strait, you can watch bull racing at certain times of the year. There is also some beautiful Dutch Colonial architecture in and around Surabaya that is nice to visit.
Unfortunately, most of the "fun" things to do and the "gems" are a 2-3 hour drive outside of the city.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Stone carvings, wood carvings, batik, ikat, oleh-oleh.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is incredibly inexpensive to live in Indonesia. House help, local foodstuffs, local travel, etc. are all cheap. Indonesia is a huge country with over 17,000 islands to visit. If you like traveling and adventure, Indonesia could be for you. There are numerous artisinal products unique to the country, and you will find yourself wanting some - from stone carvings to beautiful hand-carved teak furniture, to vividly-colored batik fabrics and hand-woven ikat fabrics.
The climate is tropical - you'll never be cold here... unless you crank your A/C.
10. Can you save money?
Yes. We didn't travel as much as others, and have been able to pay down debt and put some money away.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How much speaking the local language would have benefited me when I arrived - do not believe them when they say, "Oh, you can get by with just English!"
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
If I had set my expectations lower, yes. It is a quiet Post, we've made some good friends, and the differential is nice.
That said, 2 years here is more than enough, and I find myself bored more often than not. Beware the temptation to go out to the bar/club every weekend. It's easy to slip into that pattern.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of quick and efficient customer service, aggressive and direct language/behavior, expectations of promptness, winter clothes, and POV (if you're USG personnel).
4. But don't forget your:
Insect repellent, sunscreen, patience, creative and passive-aggressive problem-solving skills, and your sense of adventure.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The Act Of Killing (Theatrical Cut) [English Subtitled]
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Politics of Indonesia (Kingsbury); The End of Innocence?: Indonesian Islam and the Temptation of Radicalism (Feillard, Madinier, and Wee); Instant Indonesian: How to Express 1,000 Different Ideas with Just 100 Key Words and Phrases!
