Libreville, Gabon Report of what it's like to live there - 10/15/20
Personal Experiences from Libreville, Gabon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we've previously lived in Rabat, Morocco, and Stuttgart, Germany.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
All over, but Eastern Canada and Western US originally. Libreville pretty much exclusively connects through Paris (7 hours) or Addis Ababa (5ish hours). There is usually a daily flight from these two hubs. The flights are expensive if traveling under your own steam or having folks come visit - the biggest downside to this post, I would say.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What years did you live here?
2019-2021 (still a year to go).
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing is generally pretty decent, with a few minor issues. It varies between 3 bedroom apartments and 2 to 3 bedroom houses (almost exclusively town homes). Everything is within a 10 minute drive of the Embassy and located in a nice neighborhood of town. A couple of new complexes have a poorly maintained and unpaved road to them, but the drive over it is only about 2 minutes.
The housing is typically spacious and recently renovated. The USG-owned compound is the one exception to this, but I understand renovations are scheduled to gut them and redo entirely.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Almost everything is available (barring some specific Indian and Mexican spices and products) for a price. Libreville is a pricy post because everything is imported, almost entirely from France, though the COLA does make up for this. The quality of products can be lower than in North America, but if you're with the US Embassy, this is a consumables post, which means you'll be able to stock up on favourite brands.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cleaning products; specific types of alcohol (French wine is prevalent, but other regions are underrepresented or not available at all - beer selection is very limited); hot sauces (they have a spicy sauce here that's excellent, but it is strong; tabasco is available, but little else if you like variety); peanut butter; if you like almond milk or anything specific like that, bring it - I've yet to see it on the market.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
French restaurants and French-African fusion abound and are quite good. A few good Italian places and a couple of Lebanese places. If you like whole fried/baked fish and grilled meats this is a great post.
Take-out is getting better and better. There's still only one DoorDash-type service and it is slow.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
You're living practically on the beach in a very hot/humid climate. People have had lots of problems with roaches and ants. We've kept our air-conditioners on and dehumidifers running and have had very few issues overall (some small ants, but nothing gross), but we do have two cats, so they may be helping with our pests, who knows?
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Sending is an issue. It's a pouch-only post, so outbound mail is extremely limited. There is DHL but it is very expensive. I don't even know if there's a Gabonese post office.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Housekeepers and nannies are plentiful, but the cost is higher than what I think is typical of Africa, because the basic cost of living is higher. We pay our housekeeper about 50$ a day for a full house-cleaning.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy and some of the housing have gyms. The USG owned compound has a nice pool. There is a horseback riding facility.
Otherwise, the beach is super accessible and there is the arboretum nearby for some forest hiking.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No. Almost the only place credit cards are accepted is the big grocery chains. This is very much a cash economy and that can be a real pain, but there is an ATM at the Embassy now, which helps significantly. ATMs around town are safe to use but often run out of cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
No idea, but I would expect these to be limited.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French helps enormously. Few places have English menus and services are rarely provided in English (even most of the Embassy facilities workers use primarily French). Most of the housekeepers/nannies have varying levels of English though.
The Embassy provides French classes.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Very little is wheelchair-accessible and sidewalks, if they are there, are rarely well-maintained.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I would suspect the taxis are affordable, but I wouldn't advise their use. This really is a car-centric post.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4WD with tons of clearance. We have a Toyota 4 runner and it has served us extremely well, so much so that others covet it very much. Bad roads are common outside of downtown and flooding does happen. If you want to leave town (to head to beaches or parks) the roads get... interesting. I don't know of any instances of burglary/carjacking in the Embassy community. Don't bring a small sedan or anything of the sort.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is available, affordable, and usually hooked up at arrival. It's fast enough to run all your streaming services and use video chats. It does occasionally drop, but not usually for long.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Google Fi is available in country. Otherwise, all Embassy employees are provided with a phone and all EFMs get a local sim card. Employees' phones are topped up, but EFMs have to pay for their SIM though it's really not much.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I don't know if I'd use the kennel at the vet's office, but for check ups they are decent. I wouldn't advise bringing a sick or elderly pet here, but they've done successful surgery on our cat and been good with general maintenance appointments. There's no quarantine upon arrival. Definitely bring your favourite flea/tick meds, but also any dewormers needed. Local meds are often available (sometimes the stock runs out for weeks on end), but often much more expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
The Embassy has been great at finding EFM jobs for those that want them. Otherwise, people telecommute. There's very little available on the local economy, that I know of.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tons, from church groups, to language groups, to wildlife conservation groups, there are loads of volunteer options!
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Typically business-business casual at work, depending on your position. Around town things are extremely informal. The local fabric is great and fun to have made into a wide variety of outfits.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pick pocketing in crowded markets (though I don't know of a recent example) and the driving is certainly an adventure, but otherwise, this is a very safe post.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is prevalent, so take care with repellant and to take your meds. Otherwise, pools and beach are ubiquitous, so knowing how to swim and keeping a close eye on kiddos is important. Local medical care is decent, but often slow (appointments often involve hours of waiting). They medevac for almost everything.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
In town, there is pollution, but the housing is right on the beach and with the wind off the ocean, it's really clean. Seasonal allergies (which is pretty much all year round, due to being on the equator) can be issues for some. Occasionally during the dry season, some locals burn trash. This rarely extends for even a full day, but the smoke is disgusting and does deposit a layer of nasty ash/grime. That being said, I think this is only ever an issue for those on the USG owned compound.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There's little in the way of gluten-free or specific allergy foods, so you have to be careful and bring your own stuff if this is an issue. I would be very careful of local restaurants taking appropriate care with food allergies.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The isolation of the country is probably the biggest issue. It's a small Embassy community and flights out are costly and long, making short getaways hard. There are some resorts and national parks within easy distance (and a few more within tougher distances) that make getting out of town possible. It's a slow moving post with not a lot going on outside of work, so having the ability to easy by the pool/beach and make your own fun are necessities.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
For almost the entire year it's very hot and humid - think Florida. During the summer months (mid-July to mid-September usually, though climate change is blurring this period significantly) it gets drier and "cooler". The most clothing people wear in the "cool" months are light sweaters and jeans; shorts/dresses for the rest of the year.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is one main school where Embassy folks send their kids.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, and local to the housing. People seem happy with these services. No idea on cost, but never heard specific issues with that. Usually if people need after-school care they rely on household help/nannies.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, through the main school, but no personal experience with this.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
If you speak French, the expat community is huge, with a large military/diplomatic French presence.
If not, it's quite small. Most Embassy folks stick to hanging out with other Embassy folks. Morale always depends on outlook - some love it and some don't. On average, for those who take advantage of the things to do outside of the city, morale tends to be high.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is a pool/pool bar complex on the USG-owned compound where most people socialize and hold events. The beach is accessible from this compound and other beaches are within driving distance. The French military base has activities and holds an open enrollment day, but I have no direct experience with these.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not sure about single people, but for couples without kids, it's great. Lots of restaurants and beach and tropical forest fun. For families with kids, it depends greatly on the make up of the Embassy community, and this can change quickly, but usually there are other kids around to play with.
Again, most of your enjoyment will really depend on your general outlook and temperament.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
You need pretty good French to make friends with the locals. Some people try harder than others in this respect, but it's not always an easy option. No idea about prejudices personally and haven't heard of anything from others.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
LGBTQ relationships have just been decriminalized. I don't think any LGBTQ expats have particular issues, though I don't think they date locally for the most part.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not that I know of. As a woman, I've had no real issues at all.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The weather is fantastic and we absolutely love living on the beach with a pool nearby. In that respect we've been very happy at home. The national parks we've visited have been excellent experiences (Nyonie and Pongara) and we're looking forward to doing at least one other one. Going to the resort across the estuary (Baie des Tortues) on American holidays when it's empty is another great thing to do.
The locals are nice and having clothes made out of the local fabric has been a fun addition.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Again, the local parks and resort. Going to Cap Esterias (roughly 40 mins drive) for lunch/beach is awesome; similarly flat beach (rough an hour drive) and the arboretum (roughly 20 mins) for hiking are super fun.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
For fabric absolutely. There are wooden sculptures and traditional tribal masks too, but be careful what kind of wood so it's not restricted (for instance, ebony). I'd also bring someone along that has a sense of the authenticity and value so you don't get fleeced, but generally people seem happy with their purchases.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's safe, it's great weather, and it's close to a lot of really cool, exotic nature (elephants and buffalos are normally sighted at the national parks, all kinds of birds year round, and turtles next on the local beaches.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Don't suffer the haters, hang out with people who are excited about being here. Attitude is everything in a post like this. Beef up on your French.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. We've had a great tour and if we'd had the option, probably would have extended for a third year.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, bad attitude.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure, sunscreen, mosquito repellent.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Heart of Darkness does take place not far, but that's not exactly fun...
6. Do you have any other comments?
While most of the comments may make this seem like a harder place to live, we've actually found the opposite. We came in excited for what has amounted to a beach vacation of a post and have loved it all. Take every opportunity to get out of town, whether it's a weekend jaunt to the beach or a visit to a national park. The park visits can be pricey but you'll never visit Gabon again, most likely, so take advantage.
